Climbing The Sand Dune In Bolonia

Last week we we did something that we haven’t done since having our children. We climbed the sand dune at the far end of our favourite beach in Bolonia, Cádiz. I don’t quite know why we haven’t taken the children up there before now, because after all it is an ideal place for two boisterous boys to burn off some energy. They are currently going through what I think of as a ‘bundle’ phase, because they spend most of their time bundling on top of each other and rolling about on the ground while trying to smack each other’s bottom and shouting “bottom, bottom!” Consequently any location that has very wide open spaces, relatively few other people within a 100m radius and lots of opportunities to roll around on the ground is an ideal place for us!

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To get to the dune we parked at the far end of town, near to the Baelo Claudia Roman ruins. Parking there is limited and a bit of a ‘find whichever small space you can to squeeze your car in’ experience and we ended up having a bit of a minor altercation with a family in a campervan as we both vied for the same space but it was resolved almost amicably when I bounded across to say hello and cheerily offered the rather grumpy, muttering campervan family the space and we went off to find another. Having found a new ‘space’ and parked lopsidedly in the middle of a grassy, puddly, uneven bit of land we set off to begin our adventure.

The weather was very strange that day. As we drove there we noticed a thick blanket of cloud just over Bolonia but as we passed by we saw that Tarifa was bathed in glorious sunshine, Punta Paloma was also sunny, in fact everywhere was sunny except Bolonia which was grey and chilly. We weren’t discouraged though and actually it was rather advantageous because as I remember from the last time we climbed the dune, about 9 years ago, it was quite difficult climbing it in the heat of the sun. I also seem to recall that we were hungover on that particular day too which wouldn’t have helped, but those were our pre-children days when we seemed to do most things at the weekend with a hangover. Now, in our post-children days we just do everything in a constant state of extreme tiredness. But anyway, I’m digressing.

Now then, where was I? Oh yes, climbing the dune in the cloud. We had gone along the wooden walkway from where the car was parked until we reached the base of the dune. Looking up to the top of the dune from the beach you realise just how high it actually is and climbing on sand isn’t the easiest thing in the world. We started off full of enthusiasm, the boys running on ahead and throwing themselves down the steep sides of the dunes, running, rolling and bundling and generally getting covered head to foot in sand. As we got closer to the top Henry needed more coaxing as his energy levels depleted which resulted in him throwing himself down in the sand and refusing to move from his comfy, sandy nest and eventually we had to carry him some of the way as his little legs were tired and we feared we may never reach the top otherwise!

As we made our ascent we came across all sorts of different people. There was a group of three French lads with their bikes which they had pushed up to the top and were attempting to ride down some of the very steep slopes with various degrees of success! There was a small group of tourists being given a guided tour and we eavesdropped on what the guide was saying as he pointed out some interesting, little known places that could just be made out in the distance. There were other families with children and dogs leaping around excitedly, people sat on their own reading on the peaks of the dunes and groups of people who had set up windbreaks, deckchairs and picnic tables in the troughs of the dunes and who looked like they were set to spend the day there.

When we finally reached the top we sat down for a few minutes and admired the views before we all ran and rolled back down again. We tried surfing down on a bit of plastic that we found but it didn’t work, even when we tried sending little Henry down. So instead we continued rolling and running, frequently needing to coax Henry back up from where he was contentedly lying flat out in the sand refusing to get up again. Eventually I ended up carrying him back and felt like I’d had a very thorough workout by the time I reached the wooden walkway again.

On reaching the walkway we emptied our shoes of the copious amounts of dune that had collected inside them and then attempted to de-sand the boys which proved to be a job almost too big, even for expert de-grubbers like us to handle. Brushing off as much as we could and making a mental note to stick them both in the shower when we got back home we set off to a nearby chiringuito to get some lunch.

We had a fantastic afternoon climbing the dune and we decided that next time we would take our dog Joey as he also enjoys our favourite family pastimes of running and rolling and ‘bundling’! If you too like to roll/run/bundle then I would encourage you to climb the dune too. Or if you are more accustomed to leisurely, sedate walks (lucky you!) then I would also encourage you to climb the dune. And while you are there, if you hear repeated and increasingly weary calls of “Come on Henry! Up you get!” or “Come on Henry, you can’t lie there all day!” or “Come on then Henry, mummy will carry you!” travelling to your ears on the wind from across the dunes then it’s more than likely that we are there too.
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The Perfect Beach

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Today is a chilly, grey, miserable day. On days like this my thoughts frequently turn to sunnier, warmer times in an attempt to shrug off the gloom. Today is no exception. I’ve been thinking about Bolonia, our family’s favourite beach-day destination. Living on the Costa del Sol we obviously have no shortage of beaches to visit so it is testament to the beauty of the Costa de la Luz that given the choice we venture that way whenever we can.

Bolonia is a small town just past Tarifa in Cádiz and it has lots to offer. Whenever we go we always take a left turn when we get to the town. Incidentally if you follow the road to the right instead then you will come to the Baelo Claudia Roman ruins which are interesting to have a look around. It is well worth a look if you are wanting something other than just a day at the beach. Making a left turn at the town though will take you along a road lined with cafes, small shops and holiday apartments on one side and a variety of chiringuitos and restaurants on the other. To follow in our footsteps drive all the way to the end of the road. It only takes a few minutes, it’s not far. This is where we park our car, unload all the beach paraphernalia and the children and we head off along the track to the beach.

In our pre-children days we would often walk further along the beach some way. This is where we stumbled upon the nudist beach one time and we were treated to the vision of a naked man doing tai chi. Now I have no problem with nudist beaches and I have no problem with tai chi but the two combined didn’t make especially harmonious bedfellows. Consequently, on that occasion we carried on further along the beach and as far as I can recall that was the last time we explored that far because soon after came the arrival of our first child and we just didn’t have the available arms or inclination to carry beach paraphernalia, a baby and the extensive paraphernalia required by him on a hike along the beach! So now we stick to the more accessible beaches. These are still natural and wild though. So much so that it is common to see cows and horses roaming along the beach or lying down in groups on the sand which is a rather spectacular sight.
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Another thing that we love about the beach in Bolonia is that on certain days at high tide the sea rushes up, over and then down the beach to create a large lagoon on the other side, near the rocky grassland. This is great for adults and children alike, but especially young children who can paddle and splash in the warm, shallow water without fear of getting out of their depth or being washed over by waves. My boys love floating on body boards there and building dams across the lagoon using the plentiful supply of rocks nearby in an attempt to stem the flow of the water. One day we even dug a channel linking the sea to the lagoon and we watched the water rushing from one side to the other. Many people even stopped and took photos of it! It was great fun.
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Due to the frequent very windy conditions there are several things you might possibly see at Bolonia and I’m not just referring to the rogue parasols that have been swept up and launched at speed by the wind blowing along the length of the beach. These are usually swiftly followed by beach goers trying to retrieve the parasol and also other helpful strangers who will always help you in your quest! This has happened to us many times and luckily so far there have been no injuries sustained by any unwitting sunbather and we have always succeeded in reclaiming our errant parasols. We did once lose a favourite frisbee though on a particularly windy day. It had been thrown at the water’s edge but took a diversion out to sea and rapidly travelled beyond our reach. So do take care if you are there on a windy day! Wind surfers and paragliders can frequently be seen taking advantage of the wind and they provide some entertainment as they range from accomplished experts to first time novices, both offering their own brand of entertainment! You often see divers too who trudge through the surf armed with air tanks and harpoons only to emerge some time later with a bountiful supply of fish.
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After a day on the sand (and sometimes even midway through, especially if we are accompanied by my mother!) it is always lovely to retire to the nearest chiringuito for a restorative glass of wine or beer or whatever takes your fancy. We usually go to chiringuito La Cabaña because it is the nearest one to our favourite beach spot, but also because we like it. I can’t think of a better end to a beach day than sitting outside in a warm breeze, looking out to sea and watching the sun set.
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The only down side of going to Bolonia is the potential for horrendous traffic on the way there and back during the busy Summer months. It doesn’t always happen but we have been unlucky enough to be stuck in incredibly slow moving traffic for hours in the past. One time it was so bad that we even turned around and travelled out of our way,heading towards Medina Sidonia for an hour just to get to the motorway in order to turn around and drive the two hours it took us to get back along the traffic-free motorway! However, despite the heavy volume of traffic that you can often see on the way there, Bolonia itself never seems too over crowded, especially at our end of the beach. Of course it gets busy but never overwhelmingly so.

Bolonia has a very friendly, relaxed atmosphere and you can meet some interesting people there. I once saw a lady walking along the beach who every now and then would stop and write something in the sand, take a photo and then move on. As I watched her I became curious to know what she was doing so I went over to ask. It turned out that she was writing some quotes in the sand for her mother who wasn’t able to get to the beach anymore because she was ill and so she was writing things like ‘te quiero mama’ and ‘siempre pensado a ti’ and then take a photograph of this to send to her. What a wonderful thing to do!
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Often on the way there, or on the way back if there is time, we will turn off just down the road a little at Punta Paloma which is quite a little adventure in itself. After a short drive the road becomes covered in sand, so much so that you have to be careful that your car doesn’t get stuck! It is fun to park at the side of the road and climb up the very steep hill of sand. When you reach the top you are rewarded by the sight of the sand dunes spread out below you reaching down to the sea. It is a lovely but energetic walk down to the water and then back up, especially great for children who can tear around and play in the sand. It can also be fun to try and find your way back to the point where you originally climbed up. We usually manage to surface quite a distance away from where we parked! Or maybe we just have a bad sense of direction!
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For those of you who have been to Bolonia I’m probably preaching to the converted, but if you haven’t been then I would urge you to visit. It is a fantastic place to spend a day or, even better, make a holiday of it and stay in one of the holiday apartments there. And once you have visited please let me know what you think.

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